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Ecu flash tune motorcycle atlanta ga1/26/2024 It was faster than everything else in the Reno/Tahoe area in a straight line and topped out at 196 so it clearly made the power I was used to (last time being clocked that fast was the back straight of road Atlanta on the endurance bikes (199)). I was just riding on the street so I didn't care about peak power but I really don't think the bike had much more in it with a stock motor. For my 2011 I had a Bazzaz, with the Z-Bomb and a NON custom map. Now that its dialed in "ish", its just sooo much better than our old stuff all around (regardless of the hiccups). This bike however has been anything but normal. Every 1000 prior to 2017 was just such a different animal and you knew exactly what to expect when you bought one. Im not surprised there wasn't any dead spots because ours didn't have them either but we did use a PC on them. We used two K6s like yours as our endurance bikes (170, 180, and a 190 horse motor all with pump gas), so I'm vaguely familiar. You would benefit from a dyno tune, then using this combined with your dyno AFR map doing the street tune. My bike is stupid fast (should not be allowed on the street), its already seen much competition. Don't believe everything people say on the forums about this being a "garbage in garbage out" tool. My bike already had a flash and tune so I only bought it to smooth out the bad spots. Do not expect a perfect tune with this but you can expect a very smooth ride. As stated in their warning DO NOT use with anything other than pump gas, and DO NOT get the o2 sensor wet or you will be spending $100 for a new sensor. I still have it on the bike even though I have the map where I want it, just to because I paid for it and because the humidty here in MS fluctuates from 60s to 90s so much but I don't accept the changes, I just let it tune. From this point I smoothed the AFR table, kept riding and making adjustments (also adjusting the % of change it can do from 15-10-5) for perfection (IMO). M4 full systems have very wide piping and leaned the bikes rpms (3-4K and below) out too much so it causes bucking. As I made more runs I adjusted some of the erroneous numbers where it would just from 10,11,13,20,15,10 etc (setting that 20 to 14) then hit save, and also adjusting the AFR a little richer in some areas (lower end mostly) where It was too lean. I went to the fuel table and hit save adjustments then repeated this a couple more times. It completely smoothed out my tune (from SC, but I live in MS with different temps and humidity). I went for a ride (maybe 3 miles), came back and plugged it up to my PC (will only work on windows applications) and it had already done a fair bit of mapping (my AFR table was 13.2 from 0/0 to 100/14,250). the recommendation for best performance is 13.2 (being the leaner) - 12.8 (being the richer) and not to go outside of those parameters unless you are talking about idle or cruise (14.7 is stoic (too lean will damage the engine)). Each bike is different so if you have already had a tune you will want your dynos AFR map, if not then you will need to try and find a similar one or build your own. The final step was setting the Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) which is the most important part of all this. After I zeroed that out and left 60 seconds delay the Autotune cut on and began mapping. If you do not have the extra wire to integrate the temperature to the PCV then don't set a temp delay. I set a temperature and time delay but noticed after starting the motorcycle and 60 secs had passed that the Autotune was not cutting on (this is where I googled my problem). Using dynojets youtubes and some google I set everything up with relative ease minus 1 thing. If you are tuning a motorcycle YOU must do the PAIR delete to get accurate readings from a wideband sensor or you will run rich. I have a flashed & mapped ECU so I did the PAIR delete (removed the PAIR valve and ran the rubber hose from one PAIR to the other then capped the airbox with the rubber nipple (block off plates are a waste of time and money IMO)). I have an M4 full system which has two o2 sensor bungs (one for the stock sensor, and the 18mm for the Autotune). The Physical install was very very easy on my 2017 GSXR 1000. Got it on sale from Revzilla during the holiday so I suggest waiting for that. I went with the Dynojet Autotune because I already had a PCV and because it tunes while you ride unlike the Bazzaz (data logger) or others. I have been skeptical for years of these things because of so much bad publicity from people, but I felt like our technology has progressed enough where this thing should be really good, and it really is! Also just like reviews on any other product peoples opinions need to be read carefully and taken with a grain of salt, and of course someone who owns a dyno is going to say don't use this because it takes business away from them.
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